Ueno Sakuragi Atari - A great little spot in the quiet streets of Yanaka. Three in one: Yanaka Beer Hall (only open 12-5pm) (get the four beertaster), OshiOlive for oil and salt gifts, Kayaba Bakery.
New & hip cluster of shops/eateries housed in buildings constructed during the early Showa era. Self-consciously hip, but has a nice community vibe & goods are of artisanal quality.