Brock isn't reinventing Southern food. As a result, he (and Husk) has become a torchbearer for an honest style of home cooking that many of us never tasted until now.
The cumin lamb belly? Fiery and addictive. Warm egg custard with duck confit and sea urchin? Brilliant. Hot-and-sour pork dumplings made to order? Further proof that MCF is no accident.
First I ordered a dozen oysters, then I ordered six more, and then six more after that. The quarter-size Olympia, "Samish Sweets," and Malaspina varieties were that good.
They've got the best house-made charcuterie, crazy-low prices (a ten-course tasting menu for two for $60!?), and smart food that applies elements of molecular gastronomy to Midwestern traditions.
Skipping the kimchi taco route that's so popular elsewhere, Kim takes a chance (and succeeds) with dishes like a clever spin on the clambake, Korean chili and calamari stuffed with chicken and pork.
If I made a list of my top-ten dishes of 2011, three would come from Olexy's big-city spot: braised rabbit with handkerchief pasta, soft-shell crab with spicy fennel pickle, and golden potato gnocchi.
Expect their smoked-mahi fish to be copied by other restaurants around the country. There's no script to follow. It's just two guys with two restaurants cooking food they want to eat.
Starters include pickled pork tongue and escargots with bone marrow. Want a sandwich? Try the General Tso's sweetbreads. Go for lunch and order the French onion soup--it's the best I've ever had.
It occupies the ground floor of a luxe new condo building--not my preferred restaurant location, but I'll go anywhere for executive chef David Bull's distinctly American comfort food.
Each homespun dish is available in either a half or full portion. And then there's the fireplace, appealing staff, and intimate setting that make it feel like you're eating in grandma's country house.
